From Fermented Fish Sauce to Modern Condiment

Ketchup is one of the most popular condiments in the world, synonymous with fast food, burgers, and French fries. However, its origins are far from the sweet, tangy tomato-based sauce we recognize today.

The story of ketchup is a culinary journey spanning centuries and continents, reflecting globalization, trade routes, and shifting food preferences. Let’s trace the history of ketchup from its beginnings as a fermented fish sauce in Asia to the mass-produced tomato ketchup found on grocery shelves today.

The Origins of Ketchup: Fermented Fish Sauce in Southeast Asia

The earliest ancestors of ketchup originated in Southeast Asia, specifically from fermented fish sauces used in ancient China and what is now Vietnam. The word “ketchup” is believed to be derived from the Chinese word kê-tsiap, a fermented fish brine used as a condiment to flavor dishes. Kê-tsiap itself was not made from tomatoes, but from fish or shellfish, which were left to ferment, creating a potent and savory umami flavor that enhanced bland foods like rice.

According to culinary historian Ken Albala, fish-based sauces were a staple in Southeast Asian cuisine for thousands of years. These sauces were highly regarded for their ability to preserve food and enhance its flavor. During the 17th century, European traders and sailors, many of whom had access to Southeast Asian ports, were introduced to kê-tsiap and brought it back to Europe. It is important to note that while kê-tsiap was used in Asia for centuries, the concept of ketchup as we know it would not emerge until much later.

The Spread of Ketchup to Europe

When European traders encountered kê-tsiap, they appreciated its bold, savory flavor and saw potential for its adaptation in European cuisine. British and Dutch traders, in particular, were instrumental in introducing the sauce to Europe. However, the original kê-tsiap did not translate well to European palates, partly due to differences in available ingredients and local tastes. Instead, European cooks began experimenting with new recipes to recreate their own versions of kê-tsiap, often substituting the fermented fish with other ingredients like mushrooms, walnuts, and anchovies.

These early European versions of ketchup were far from the thick, tomato-based condiment familiar today. Instead, they resembled a spiced, savory sauce with a strong vinegar base, used to flavor meats and stews. One early recipe for ketchup appears in a British cookbook published in 1727, which called for ingredients such as anchovies, shallots, white wine, and various spices. This version of ketchup was a far cry from the modern tomato-based version, but it played an essential role in the sauce's transformation.

The Introduction of Tomato Ketchup in America

Tomatoes were not always a staple ingredient in ketchup. In fact, they were once considered poisonous by many Europeans and Americans due to their belonging to the nightshade family, which includes several toxic plants. It was only in the late 18th century that tomatoes began to be accepted as a viable food source in Europe and America.

In the early 19th century, tomato ketchup began to gain popularity in the United States. Some of the earliest known recipes for tomato ketchup appeared in American cookbooks in the early 1800s. By the 1830s, tomato-based ketchup was increasingly popular in New England, where it was praised for its versatility as a table sauce.

A recipe published in 1812 by scientist and horticulturist James Mease is often cited as one of the first recorded recipes for tomato ketchup in America. Mease’s version of ketchup used ripe tomatoes, spices, and brandy, resulting in a sauce that had little in common with today’s sugar-laden condiment.

The addition of sugar and vinegar to tomato ketchup during this period was partly practical — sugar acted as a preservative, while vinegar added acidity and enhanced the sauce's longevity. These early recipes laid the foundation for the mass-market production of ketchup that would revolutionize the condiment industry in the coming decades.

The Industrialization of Ketchup: Henry J. Heinz and Mass Production

The mass production and commercialization of today’s ketchup can be traced back to one man: Henry J. Heinz. In 1876, Heinz, a food entrepreneur from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, introduced his own version of tomato ketchup to the market. Heinz’s ketchup was unique in that it utilized ripe tomatoes, which naturally contain higher levels of pectin, providing the sauce with a thicker consistency. Additionally, Heinz emphasized the use of high-quality ingredients and hygienic production methods, which distinguished his product from other ketchups that were often contaminated or of poor quality.

Heinz’s focus on product quality was reflected in his company’s slogan, “Pure and Simple.” This emphasis on purity was especially significant during the late 19th and early 20th centuries when food adulteration was widespread, and concerns over food safety were growing. Heinz capitalized on the public’s demand for safe and sanitary food products, marketing his ketchup as free from preservatives and artificial additives.

Heinz's ketchup quickly gained popularity, becoming a household staple in the United States. By the early 20th century, it was not only ubiquitous in American homes but also began to be exported internationally, helping to cement ketchup's place as a global condiment.

The Rise of Sweet and Spicy Ketchup

While ketchup's basic recipe of tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, and spices has remained largely consistent since Heinz’s time, the condiment has seen a variety of regional and global adaptations. In some parts of the world, ketchup takes on a sweeter or spicier profile. For example, in the Philippines, banana ketchup, made from mashed bananas, sugar, vinegar, and spices, became a popular alternative during World War II when tomatoes were scarce.

In the United States, ketchup’s flavour profile has also evolved to become sweeter over the years. This change is partly due to shifts in consumer preferences, particularly during the 20th century when processed foods with higher sugar content became more widespread. Today, many commercially available ketchups contain significant amounts of high-fructose corn syrup, which has contributed to the modern ketchup's characteristic sweetness.

The Global Reach of Ketchup

As one of the most globally recognized condiments, ketchup has transcended its humble origins as a fermented fish sauce in Southeast Asia to become a staple in fast-food chains and restaurants worldwide. According to food historian Andrew F. Smith, ketchup is consumed in virtually every corner of the globe, with Americans alone consuming over 10 billion ounces annually.

However, ketchup’s influence is not limited to fast food. In many countries, the condiment has been adapted to suit local palates and culinary traditions. For instance, in Japan, ketchup is often used as a key ingredient in omurice, a dish made from fried rice wrapped in an omelet. In Germany, ketchup is served alongside currywurst, a beloved street food consisting of sausage topped with a curry-spiced ketchup sauce.

Ketchup’s Enduring Popularity

From its origins as a fermented fish sauce in Asia to its industrialization by Henry Heinz in the 19th century, ketchup’s history is a reflection of cultural exchange, adaptation, and innovation. Today, ketchup is not only a symbol of American fast food culture but also a versatile condiment embraced by people worldwide. While its basic ingredients have remained relatively consistent since Heinz’s time, ketchup continues to evolve, adapting to new trends and tastes while maintaining its status as a beloved global condiment.