The Culinary History of the Mapuche People

Unveiling the roots

The Mapuche, Indigenous to the south-central region of Chile and southwestern Argentina, have a rich culinary heritage that reflects their deep connection to the land, local resources, and traditions dating back thousands of years.

Their unique gastronomic history is deeply tied to the land they have fought to preserve, and their food not only sustains their physical well-being but also preserves their cultural identity. This article explores the culinary history of the Mapuche people, their traditional foods, methods of preparation, and the influences that have shaped their cuisine over the centuries.

Pre-Colonial Mapuche Cuisine

The Mapuche were traditionally semi-nomadic, hunter-gatherers, and agriculturalists, utilizing the diverse ecosystems of southern Chile, from the Andean highlands to the coastal plains. Their diet was rich in locally available ingredients such as maize, potatoes, beans, quinoa, and native herbs. For the Mapuche, food was a fundamental part of their connection to nature, and they believed that the land provided not only sustenance but also spiritual energy.

Staple Crops: Potatoes, Maize, and Quinoa

The Mapuche were among the early cultivators of several important crops that remain staples in their diet. Potatoes, for instance, were cultivated long before European colonization and became a key food source for the Mapuche.

Chile is home to numerous native varieties of potatoes, and the Mapuche utilized them in soups, stews, and other dishes. Similarly, maize (corn) was another foundational crop. The grain was consumed fresh or dried and ground into flour for making tortillas and other dishes.

Quinoa, native to the Andean region, was another staple used in soups and porridges, providing the Mapuche with a nutritious and versatile ingredient.

Foraging and Hunting

In addition to agriculture, the Mapuche also relied heavily on foraging and hunting. They gathered wild fruits like maqui berries, which are known for their high antioxidant content, as well as other native fruits like murta and piñones (pine nuts from the Araucaria tree).

Hunting provided protein from animals such as guanacos, deer, and birds. Fish and seafood were also important for Mapuche communities living near rivers and coastal areas. The use of smoked and dried meats, a method still in use today, allowed them to preserve food for times of scarcity.

Culinary Techniques and Cooking Methods

The Mapuche utilized a variety of cooking techniques that maximized the nutritional value of their food while preserving its natural flavors. One of the most iconic methods is the curanto, a traditional earth oven. In curanto, food is placed in a pit lined with hot stones and covered with leaves, allowing it to cook slowly through steam. This method is used for cooking meats, seafood, and vegetables, imbuing them with a unique flavor.

Stone Grinding

Grinding stones were a common tool in Mapuche kitchens, used for processing maize, wheat, and other grains into flour. The process of grinding food by hand was labor-intensive but resulted in finely textured ingredients essential for making dishes like tortillas or sopas (soups).

Fermentation

Fermentation also played a role in Mapuche food culture. Chicha, a fermented beverage made from maize, was an important drink in pre-colonial times and continues to be part of their cuisine today. This mildly alcoholic beverage was consumed during feasts, ceremonies, and special occasions.

Impact of Spanish Colonization on Mapuche Cuisine

The arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century significantly impacted the Mapuche people's way of life, including their foodways. Spanish colonists introduced new ingredients such as wheat, rice, and livestock, which were gradually incorporated into the Mapuche diet.

Wheat, in particular, became an important ingredient, replacing maize in some traditional recipes. The introduction of European livestock, especially cattle and sheep, altered the traditional protein sources for the Mapuche, who incorporated beef, pork, and lamb into their diet.

However, despite these changes, the Mapuche retained many of their traditional foods and cooking methods. For instance, while they adopted wheat for making bread, they developed their own version of unleavened bread called sopaipillas, which are made from wheat flour and fried in oil. This dish, although introduced through colonial influence, is now deeply embedded in Mapuche culinary culture.

Traditional Mapuche Dishes

Many traditional Mapuche dishes have survived the test of time and remain central to their cuisine today. These dishes reflect a blend of pre-Columbian traditions and colonial influences, showcasing the resilience of Mapuche culture in preserving their culinary heritage.

Mültrün (Potato Pancakes)

Mültrün are pancakes made from mashed potatoes, often mixed with wheat flour and cooked on a griddle. This dish exemplifies the blending of native ingredients like potatoes with the introduced wheat flour. Mültrün are typically served with fresh herbs or as a side dish to accompany stews or meats.

Charquicán (Meat and Vegetable Stew)

Charquicán is a hearty stew made from dried meat (usually beef or lamb), potatoes, squash, and other vegetables. The dish’s name is derived from "charqui," the Mapuche word for dried meat, and reflects their traditional practice of preserving meat through drying. Today, charquicán is a popular dish throughout Chile, but its origins lie in Mapuche culinary traditions.

Pewen (Araucaria Pine Nut Dishes)

The seeds of the Araucaria tree, known as piñones or pewen in the Mapuche language, have been a vital part of the Mapuche diet for centuries. These nuts are rich in calories and have a sweet, nutty flavor. Piñones can be boiled, roasted, or ground into flour to make bread. During the harvesting season, piñones play a central role in many traditional dishes and festivals.

Mapuche Cuisine in Modern Times

In recent decades, there has been a resurgence of interest in Mapuche cuisine, both among Indigenous communities and the wider public. The Mapuche have become increasingly involved in promoting their culinary heritage as part of their broader efforts to preserve their cultural identity. This resurgence has been fueled by movements that emphasize sustainable agriculture, food sovereignty, and indigenous rights.

Today, Mapuche cuisine is celebrated for its use of local, sustainable ingredients and its connection to the land. The rise of Mapuche gastronomy as a distinct culinary identity is also evident in restaurants that focus on indigenous ingredients and cooking methods. These restaurants aim to share Mapuche culinary traditions with the world while also empowering indigenous communities through food.

The Role of Women in Mapuche Food Culture

Women have traditionally played a central role in Mapuche food culture. They are the keepers of culinary knowledge, passing down recipes and cooking techniques from generation to generation. In addition to preparing meals, women are also responsible for gathering herbs, foraging for wild fruits, and tending to household gardens. The transmission of food knowledge is closely linked to the preservation of Mapuche cultural identity, and women are seen as the protectors of these traditions.

In Mapuche society, food preparation is often a communal activity, especially during festivals and ceremonial events. Women work together to prepare large quantities of food for the entire community, reinforcing social bonds and cultural continuity through shared meals.

Final Thoughts

The culinary history of the Mapuche people is a testament to their resilience and adaptability in the face of centuries of colonization and change. While they have adopted new ingredients and cooking methods over time, the Mapuche have maintained a deep connection to their traditional foods and the land. Their cuisine reflects not only a way of eating but also a way of life, deeply rooted in the rhythms of nature and the cycles of the seasons. As interest in indigenous food cultures grows globally, Mapuche cuisine offers a unique window into a world where food is not just sustenance but a means of preserving cultural identity and fostering community.

Further Reading

Bacigalupo, Ana Mariella. Shamans of the Foye Tree: Gender, Power, and Healing among the Chilean Mapuche. University of Texas Press, 2007.

Bengoa, José. Historia del Pueblo Mapuche: Siglos XIX y XX. LOM Ediciones, 2000.

De la Cadena, Marisol. "Indigenous Cosmopolitics in the Andes: Conceptual Reflections Beyond 'Politics'." Cultural Anthropology, vol. 25, no. 2, 2010, pp. 334-370.

Foerster, Rolf. Religión y Cultura en Arauco: Los Mapuches en los Siglos XVI y XVII. Editorial Universitaria, 1993.

Lagos, Cristián. "Mapuche Gastronomy: From Traditional Ingredients to Contemporary Cuisine." Journal of Ethnic Foods, vol. 5, no. 1, 2018, pp. 21-30.